Equisetum for the Skin: Benefits of Horsetail Herb on Collagen, Oxidation and Regeneration

Horsetail herb, Equisetum arvense

Equisetum spp., commonly called horsetail, shavegrass or scouring rush, is a medicinal herb descended from an ancient group of plants dominant during the Carboniferous age. Taken internally, it’s a well-known remedy for kidney stones, urinary tract infections and bladder issues, strengthening the entire urinary system. Topically, an external wash or poultice helps improve wound healing, stop bleeding and reduce inflammation (Moore, 2003). But its mineral-rich, antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties are also nourishing, toning and healing when used in facial care.

Equisetum Improves Skin Collagen

Collagen is the main structural protein in skin and other connective tissues, forming long strands that provide elasticity and strength. As we age, collagen production slows and existing collagen is broken down faster, leading to wrinkling, sagging and crepey skin. Silica, the most abundant trace mineral in the body, is essential for collagen production, forming crosslinks that make collagen strong and activating hydroxylation enzymes important for collagen network formation (Araújo et al., 2016).

Equisetum is one of the few plants high in bioavailable silica (Kloos, 2017), and clinical and research evidence indicates that it’s incorporated into collagen and elastin structural proteins (Moore, 2003). Studies show that equisetum applied topically increases the number of cross-links between collagen fibers, increases their thickness and helps the fibers line up in the correct orientation (Carmignan et al., 2020). This may also be due to the flavonoids in the herb, which are known to improve collagen crosslinking and reduce inflammation, which damages the protein (Hoffman, 2003). 

Equisetum Reduces Oxidative Stress

Oxidative stress is a result of free radicals from UV radiation, pollution, excess sugar consumption etc. that damage fibers, cells and DNA in the skin, leading to aging. Equisetum also contains flavonoids and caffeic acid, which are shown to have antioxidant, anticancer and antiinflammatory properties (Espíndola et al., 2019). Antioxidants attach to free radicals, stabilizing them so they can’t continue to cause damage and inflammation, thus protecting the skin from environmental stressors.

Equisetum Helps with Skin Regeneration

When skin is damaged, such as with acne or inflammation, equisetum assists in the healing process, increasing the strength of healed tissues. The better the strength of regenerated tissues, the longer the lifespan of the cells and the slower the aging of the tissues (Moore, 2003). Constituents in the herb stimulate skin cell proliferation in the area surrounding the wound, which then migrate to the wound and begin the healing process (Carmignan et al. 2020). They also increase proliferation of fibroblasts, which secrete collagen proteins (Aguayo-Morales et al., 2023). Studies show that wounds treated with equisetum have better collagenization and proliferation of blood vessels and decreased inflammatory markers (Carmignan et al. 2020).

Scar tissue is decreased with equisetum treatment, as the constituents, particularly the flavonoid pinocembrin, increase the proportion of Type I collagen in relation to the Type III collagen that is associated with scar formation (Carmignan et al. 2020). Equisetum also has antibacterial properties, inhibiting  growth of Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli, which cause infection that inhibits healing and causes scarring (Aguayo-Morales et al., 2023).

Equisetum Improves Skin Health

By increasing collagen production, reducing oxidative stress and improving wound healing, evidence shows that using equisetum topically as part of a facial care routine can inhibit formation of wrinkles, loss of skin tone, environmental damage and scar formation associated with aging. 

References

Aguayo-Morales, H., Sierra-Rivera, C. A., Claudio-Rizo, J. A., & Cobos-Puc, L. E. (2023). Horsetail (Equisetum hyemale) extract accelerates wound healing in diabetic rats by modulating IL-10 and MCP-1 release and collagen synthesis. Pharmaceuticals (Basel, Switzerland), 16(4), 514. https://doi.org/10.3390/ph16040514

Araújo, L. A., Addor, F., & Campos, P. M. (2016). Use of silicon for skin and hair care: An approach of chemical forms available and efficacy. Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia, 91(3), 331–335. https://doi.org/10.1590/abd1806-4841.20163986

Carmignan, F., Matias, R., Carollo, C. A., Dourado, D. M., Fermiano, M. H., Silva, B. A. K., & Bastos, P. R. H. O. (2020). Efficacy of application of Equisetum pyramidale Goldm. hydrogel for tissue restoration of induced skin lesions in Wistar rats. Brazilian Journal of Biology = Revista Brasleira de Biologia, 80(1), 12–22. https://doi.org/10.1590/1519-6984.184409

Espíndola, K. M. M., Ferreira, R. G., Narvaez, L. E. M., Silva Rosario, A. C. R., da Silva, A. H. M., Silva, A. G. B., Vieira, A. P. O., & Monteiro, M. C. (2019). Chemical and pharmacological aspects of caffeic acid and its activity in hepatocarcinoma. Frontiers in Oncology, 9, 541. https://doi.org/10.3389/fonc.2019.00541

Hoffman, D. (2003). Medical herbalism: The science and practice of herbal medicine. Healing Arts Press.

Kloos, S. (2017). Pacific northwest medicinal plants. Timber Press.

Moore, M. (2003). Medicinal plants of the mountain west. Museum of New Mexico Press.